Naples, Italy

Whilst we are in the middle of a global pandemic, I didn’t want to miss the opportunity to write about the trip I took to Naples, Italy just before Covid-19 descended on the world. I hold such fond memories of this beautiful city and it was honestly like nowhere I have ever visited before! Still holding all the charm and glamour of a typical Italian city, I found it to be worlds’ apart from Rome, and in some ways, much preferred it. We travelled to Naples and stayed in a gorgeous Air BnB a stones’ throw away from the Via dei Tribunali. We had a beautiful, small balcony overlooking an Italian-style courtyard, made up of old stone floors, tiled stairways, overgrown palms and old, brightly painted front door ways. My favourite thing to do every morning was sit in the fresh air with a coffee and watch over the courtyard, as Italian grandmas left their quaint houses to collect their essentials: pastries, bread and coffee. We wandered down Tribunali, ever-busy with tourists and native Italians alike, with many relaxing outside of the pizzerias, coffee and cigarettes in hand. We wandered down to the port and took photos on the wolf statues, ate gelato next to the castle and even joined in with the Carnevale celebrations, throwing confetti in the main square surrounded by children in their favourite dress-up costumes! We had our first Neapolitan pizza at an amazing pizzeria recommended to us by our Air BnB hosts, at the top of the Tribunali, named Vesi. I couldn’t recommend it more – the pizza was incredible! We passed our nights in the Piazza Bellini, drinking Pinot Grigio and mingling with the locals. We were extremely lucky with the weather – despite being February, it stayed sunny for the majority of our trip! I honestly fell in love with Naples and cannot wait to visit again once all restrictions are lifted and we are able to travel again. If you’re looking for a city break weekend with amazing food and a relaxed atmosphere, Naples is the place for you!

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Tolochenaz, Switzerland

‘For beautiful eyes, look for the good in others, for beautiful lips, speak only words of kindness and for poise, walk with the knowledge that you are never alone.’

In 2019, I managed to tick off the number one item on my bucket list. I finally, after years of idolising Audrey Hepburn, took the journey off the beaten track to Tolochenaz, Switzerland, where she spent the final thirty years of her life. I’m still in a state of disbelief that I managed to visit the tiny little town, and can’t believe I am even writing this blog post. I can honestly say that Tolochenaz is one of my favourite places I’ve ever visited and can certainly see the charm it held for Audrey and why she chose to spend the latter years of her life there.

From Geneva, we took a train to Morges and visited the local Migros to pick up a bouquet of flowers for Audrey’s graveside: I chose a vibrant yellow bunch of roses. We then waited for the 703 bus toward Lussy-sur-Morges and took the 10 minute journey to the village, getting off at Place Audrey Hepburn. As we meandered down the windy road into Tolochenaz, I spotted the monument in the middle of the tiny square: a statue and plaque commemorating Audrey’s life, and I was so excited! I couldn’t wait to jump off and see up close. We ran over to the square and had a look at the plaque, with words from her son, Sean Hepburn-Ferrer. The statue of her face is scarily realistic, and such an amazing recognition of her presence in Tolochenaz. There was the loveliest little water fountain next to the statue, offering a peaceful soundtrack to the quaint town.

We decided to explore the town itself before heading to the cemetery, and there wasn’t a soul in sight. The whole time that we spent in the village, we did not see a single other person. Normally, I would find this slightly eerie but in this instance, it felt peaceful and relaxing. The village is quintessentially Swiss, with a range of charming terraced houses, small cottages and houses with thatched roofs. A rainy day, most of the local business were closed, however we passed a lovely coffee shop and the one and only restaurant in Tolochenaz that looked typically-Swiss and extremely cute! The town was extremely rural with gorgeous views of Lac Leman in the distance, framed by the snow-capped alps, one of the most breathtaking views I’ve ever seen.

We wandered up the hill to La Paisible, the house where Audrey lived for the last thirty years of her life. Surrounded by high walls and greenery, the top of the house peeped over, giving us an insight into her home. With blue shuttered windows and a thatched roof, it was just as quaint and charming as the photos suggested. We were sure to be as respectful and quiet as possible, as there are now new owners of the house who live there, but it was so exciting to be able to see where she lived and raised her children! There is also a plaque on the outside of the house commemorating her time there.

Finally, we walked five minutes further up the hill and through the underpass to visit Tolochenaz Cemetery, where Audrey is buried. It offered beautiful views of both Lac Leman and Tolochenaz itself, and right behind the cemetery is the famous buttercup field where a lot of photos were taken of Audrey, so that was lovely to see. The cemetery is very small, no more than 20 people laid to rest there, so it was easy to find Audrey. Her grave is utterly beautiful, and adorned with photos, gifts and trinkets from fans of all nationalities. I honestly couldn’t believe I’d finally got to explore the town and see her resting place, it felt like a huge privilege and my roses looked lovely on her grave. Despite it being so rainy, it was an amazing day and one that I will never forget.

Geneva, Switzerland

From Italy (see my previous two posts about my Italian travels via my travel category), we went onto Switzerland, a country that has been number one on my bucket list for many years! Not least because it is where Audrey Hepburn spent the last thirty years of her life, but also because of the natural beauty of the Swiss landscape. I was so excited to finally visit, and it is safe to say that it did not disappoint. Visiting three different places in Switzerland was amazing, and I loved all three equally! But let’s start with Geneva. Flying over the alps from Italy into Geneva was utterly breathtaking, and from the moment we landed I knew I would love the city. The city breathes sophistication and elegance and is both quaint yet bustling. Every corner you turn houses a luxury fashion store or a chic boutique, a stylish coffee house or a bespoke jewellers. The city is also super multicultural and a variation of languages can be heard when wandering by Lake Geneva. The public transport is always punctual, though you scarcely need to use it as everything is within walking distance, the city being one of the most efficient I’ve visited. We walked around the lake at dusk and it was nothing short of beautiful, from the swans that sail by to the twinkling lights hung above. We visited the cathedral and wandered through the old town, visiting the most beautiful book store: Librarie Ancienne Antiques, housing the most beautiful second hand books. From Antoine de Saint–Exupéry to Simone de Beauvoir, from Albert Camus to Jean Paul Sartre, the store houses every author you could imagine. I picked up a beautiful copy of Le Petit Prince. It isn’t limited to only Francophone writers either, but writers from all over the world. If you plan on visiting Geneva, you should factor in at least a couple of hours to peruse the shelves and treat yourself to a beautiful edition of your favourite book. As it was close to Christmas, the city also had a Christmas market in the centre, with lovely trinkets and Christmas food available to buy: the ultimate festive treat. We were also lucky enough to be in Geneva during the time at which they celebrate the Fête de l’Escalade, a festival to celebrate the defeat of the Catholic state, Duchy of Savoy’s, attempt to conquer the city in 1602. We watched the parades of horses and reenactments of that historical night in Geneva’s historical old town. It was amazing to learn a little more about the city’s history and heritage and to experience a true, Swiss celebration. Whilst I found it hard to find vegetarian/plant-based food in Geneva, we had a lovely meal at Inglewood Eaux-Vives on the Avenue de Frontenex, the veggie burger was delicious and the staff were amazing. The place gave me Northern Quarter vibes for any of my fellow Mancunians out there, and I couldn’t recommend it enough. I can honestly say that there was no place greater to begin the festive season than Geneva, and now consider Geneva to be one of my favourite cities in the world.

 

Lausanne, Switzerland

Being in Geneva, it felt only right that we make a day trip to Lausanne. Only a couple of hours away on the train and with relatively cheap tickets, we decided to wake up early and make the journey. Unfortunately, we chose the rainiest day of our holiday to do this, so the photographs that we took don’t do the beauty of Lausanne any justice, but we nevertheless had a lovely time. A fleeting visit, we spent most of our time wandering around the old city centre and admiring the architecture, the narrow cobbled streets and the beautiful cafes where the Swiss weren’t deterred by the rain and sat outside with cups of coffee – we even stopped for one ourselves! We wandered through the different boutique shops and took the metro to the more rural side of Lausanne, with the intention of climbing the tower on the top of the hill, offering panoramic views of Lausanne. One thing I would advise everyone to do is check the opening times and conditions of any attractions you wish to visit – unfortunately, we spent 40 minutes climbing a hill to find that the tower was closed! What we did not realise was that in poor weather conditions, tourists aren’t able to access the tower for health and safety reasons and it was particularly windy and rainy on that day. Nevertheless, it was fun to wander off the beaten track. Our final stop was Lausanne Cathedral, where we were lucky enough to stumble across a Swiss primary school performing Christmas carols in front of a beautiful Christmas tree. It was lovely to escape the cold for a while and listen to the children sing. Lausanne is definitely worth a visit for anyone travelling to Switzerland, and is just as beautiful as Geneva!

Vatican City

A holiday to Rome meant one thing: of course, we had to pay a visit to the world’s smallest sovereign state! Accessible via metro and fairly easy to navigate, we hopped on the red line at Repubblica in the direction of Battistini and exited at Ottaviano, the closest metro stop to the Vatican and the easiest way to arrive. We wandered through the streets and through the walls into the Vatican, and it is just as beautiful as I imagined it would be. We paid 17 euros for an ‘Ordinario’ ticket, giving us access to the Musei Vaticani and to most of the monuments, including the Sistine Chapel, which was extremely reasonable! One piece of advice I would give to any one who is wishing to visit the Vatican: wear comfortable shoes! There is a lot of walking, so much to see, and it takes a long time to wander through each section, so comfy shoes are an absolute essential. The museum was of course hugely interesting, with Roman sculpture and gorgeous artwork alike, but the star of the show really was the Sistine Chapel. There is a lot to see and do before you arrive at the Sistine Chapel thus anticipation takes over as you turn another corner and say ‘are we at the Chapel yet?,’ but it is safe to say that it did not disappoint. Michelangelo’s work is truly breathtaking and whilst the chapel was full with tourists, it was largely silent in awe of the intricacies of each and every painting that adorned the walls and the ceiling. I unfortunately didn’t manage to take too many photographs, as in a large portion of the Vatican, it is prohibited (to preserve artwork, presumably). We visited the Vatican City in the early afternoon, and in hindsight if I could visit again, I would arrive in the morning. There was a tonne to see and do, and so it is worth accounting for this when planning your trip. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to visit the Basilica as we left at dusk and the queues were extremely long. However, the sun setting made for some beautiful photos. After leaving the Vatican, we went in search of a delicious evening meal, and as this was one of our last days in Italy, we wanted it to be as Italian as we could find! We stumbled across Marcantonio Ristorante and Pizzeria, about two minutes walk from the Vatican, and I couldn’t recommend it enough. The pasta was incredible, and (as mentioned in my Rome travel post!) I couldn’t get enough of their Caprese salads. If you’re ever around the Vatican, make sure to pay them a visit! Ending our day with a pizza and a view of the Vatican City was a great way to round off the loveliest trip to Italy. I can’t wait to go back (…very very soon!)

 

Rome, Italy

It’s been a little while since I last wrote a travel post, not least because I hadn’t done much travelling in 2019. That was until December, when I decided it was time for a trip; somewhere new, somewhere I’d always wanted to go. That place was Rome. Rome has been on my bucket list since first watching one of my favourite Audrey classics, Roman Holiday (1953). It’s safe to say that Rome was just as magical as I imagined it to be! Italian culture has a certain charm that I feel you may not find elsewhere: elegance and class yet quirkiness and character. Of course, we visited the most famous of monuments, including the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, the Colosseum, the Spanish steps and much, much more. But we also wandered down small, almost unnoticeable side streets to sample some of Rome’s best pasta and ventured onto the Via di S. Giovanni for cocktails in the heart of Rome’s LGBTQ+ community. We climbed Palatine Hill and enjoyed the views from the top, we explored the Roman Forum and we wandered down some of Rome’s most expensive shopping streets. Every corner turned presented another scene from Roman Holiday, beautiful Italian women in incredible couture outfits and a pizzeria on every corner. For those of you interested in organising a trip to Rome, I could not recommend the hostel that we stayed in more: Hostel Freedom Traveller. Conveniently located nearby to Termini, Rome’s railway station, and only a short walk away from all tourist attractions, it was perfect for us. Whilst it is a hostel, there is also the option to book a private room (with or without an en-suite). The value for money is incredible, the staff are helpful and super lovely and the hostel is extremely social and a great way to meet and chat to new people. In all, Rome has left me with a desire to go back to Italy and a new found addiction for Caprese salads.

 

 

A Few Of My Favourite Things About Madrid

Having spent months living in Madrid during my year abroad, I definitely fell in love with the city. I thought it would be interesting to share a few a favourite of my aspects and places in the city!

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• La Plaza de Cebada, La Latina – I had heard so much about the edginess of Madrid; the youth, the flea markets, the cool cocktail bars etc. La Plaza de Cebada was my first taste of this, having visited the first time on a Sunday, it was full of young people like me. There was live music, cold beers on sale for €1 and really cool graffiti everywhere. It was super chilled, and a really good place to relax on a Sunday afternoon. Take the metro to La Latina and you’ll find it straight away – super cool, ‘edgier’ area.

• La Bicicleta Café – Malasaña in general is one of my favourite areas of Madrid: home to the best tapas restaurants, cocktail bars and book shops. Having mentioned cocktail bars, La Bicicleta is definitely my favourite in Madrid. My usual order being the red fruits mojito, it’s definitely the best place in Madrid to people watch, drink cocktails and listen to some really good music – a mixture of Spanish and English. It’s usually filled with young people, of all different cultures, and a great place to socialise. There’s usually a long wait for a table/space, being that it is so popular, but it is definitely worth the wait.

  

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• El Teleférico de Madrid – Having caught the metro to Casa de Campo and walked all the way to the top of the hills to catch the teleférico (cable car) to the city centre (Templo de Debod), I can safely advise you all to not do this. In the heat, and definitely the wrong footwear, I was exhausted by the time I reached the top. But the teleférico was absolutely gorgeous, you could see the whole of Madrid, the views were stunning. I would recommend walking to the the Templo de Debod (you can navigate your way from Plaza de España metro station) and take a return journey to the top of Casa De Campo and back again – the views are incredible.
• Casa de Campo – Speaking of Casa de Campo, how could I not include this area? Being on the same line as Casa de Campo is amazing, as if I’m ever feeling bored of the city, of business and traffic, it’s easy to escape to the somewhat countryside. Casa de Campo is almost entirely rural, with huge parks and gravel pathways allowing you to wander through the trees and escape from the hustle and bustle of downtown Madrid. (I sound like a travel guide, don’t I?) But seriously, it is a super tranquil, calm area to relax. Also, the theme park and zoo of Madrid are at the bottom of the hill in Casa de Campo, so if that’s more your thing, or if you even just have a fondness for nature, this is definitely an area for you.
  

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• La Azotea del Círculo de Bellas Artes – This was one of the first places I ever visited in Madrid – the rooftop bar at el Círculo de Bellas Artes. We made the effort to visit it at sunset, and though it was extremely busy, it was absolutely stunning to watch the sunset behind the Madrid skyline. It costs €4 to go up, but it is so worth it. A popular spot for sunset watching, there are tables, sun-loungers and comfy corners to relax and watch the skies.
• Cuatro Torres – maybe this is one of the more boring ones? But I know that when I see the Cuatro Torres, I’m home. Whether that’s coming out of Chamartín train station after a journey to another part of Spain, or landing on the runway in terminal one and just seeing the towers in the distance after a visit to England or Portugal – you know you’re back in Madrid when you see them. The four towers are made up of Torre Espacio, Torre de Cristal, Torre Pwc and Torre Cepsa. They represent the business district, wealth and overall luxuriousness of such an amazing city, and when I see them, I instantly feel at home.
  

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• La Rosadela de El Retiro – the Retiro in general, is one of my most favourite places in Madrid: it’s beautiful, and there is so much going on. There can be yoga in one corner, live music in another, and even birthday parties going on. But my favourite part of the Retiro (aside from the Palacio de Cristal – a must see!) is La Rosadela: the rose garden. Walking under the archways of roses into the garden thats filled with all the colours of the rainbow in rose form, fountains and lines and lines of flowers is stunning! In a cosmopolitan city that is constantly bustling, visiting the quiet of the rose garden and ambling through at your own pace is refreshing.
• El Edificio Metrópolis – in English, the Metropolis building, is my favourite building in all of Madrid. It is the first building that stuck in my memory during my first few days of living here, I am so in love with it. You can see a beautiful view of it from La Azotea del Círculo de Bellas Artes which I wrote about earlier in this post. On the corner of Calle de Alcalá and Gran Vía, and inspired by French architecture, it really is one of the most spectacular and famous views in Madrid.
  

  

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Saudade

saudade

saʊˈdɑːdə/

a deep emotional state of melancholic longing for a person or thing that is absent
“yearnings, saudades, those sonorous fruits grown for overripe hearts”

While my time living in Portugal is over, and in fact my time living abroad is over, I miss Coimbra every single day. It was a city that grew to be my home, a place that I felt welcomed, comfortable and very much happy! The Portuguese have a word – saudade – which is used to refer to a type of yearning, a type of longing as such, which doesn’t directly translate into English. It is my favourite word of all languages, not just Portuguese, because I think the meaning it holds and its unique Portuguese nature is beautiful. During my time in Coimbra, ESN (the Erasmus network at A Universidade de Coimbra) told us ‘aprende-se dizer saudade’ (learn to say saudade). I never really understood, but now I do. I’ve learnt to say saudade, because I love Coimbra, and I miss it so much, but going back wouldn’t feel the same: it wouldn’t be the same without the season, the friends, the atmosphere. But Coimbra was and still is one of my favourite places in the world, and I want to go back and visit soon. Here are a few photographs that I took in Portugal to look back on my time spent there, as I sit in rainy old England preparing for my final year of my Bachelors Degree!

 

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6 Similarities Between Madrid & Manchester

Having lived in Manchester for two years, and spent a lot of time there growing up, I would say I know the city quite well. Having lived in Madrid for five months, maybe I know it less so, but it got me to thinking how Manchester and Madrid differ, how they are alike, and what elements they have in common. When it comes down to it, there are a few ways in which the cities are similar to each other, and I thought it’d make an interesting read!

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• Unique, quirky areas: Manchester is renowned for its Northern Quarter, where you can find an edgy vintage shop selling reconditioned denim on one corner, and a cocktail bar selling drinks of all strange concoctions and creations on the opposite. Madrid has areas like this too, such as Lavapiés which is an area made up of mainly immigrants, so if you want to sample some real, authentic and extremely tasty food from differing cultures, this is definitely the place to go. There are also eccentric little cocktail bars here, not unlike the ones in La Latina. You could even take the metro to Tribunal and wander in the surrounding area, where you’ll find amazing street art similar to that of Manchester’s Northern Quarter, and where, most like Manchester, you can find groups of bloggers taking photographs with the oh-so-edgiest of graffitied walls and authentic houses.
• Football: football is such a big part of Manchester culture. Derby day is horrific for anyone who needs to pass through the city centre, use the metrolink or in fact any of the public transport systems. But theres something uniting and powerful about being apart of a football team, and in Madrid, it’s much the same as Manchester United vs. Manchester City. The city is divided into two: Real Madrid and Atlético Madrid. The city experiences the same excitement and the same anticipation on match days, and it reminds me a lot of Manchester’s love for football.
  

  

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• The LGBT community: it makes my heart burst with pride to walk around Manchester and see such support for the LGBT community. It’s common to see stickers/posters and other such materials popped around the city in support of the community, and Manchester is home to one of Britain’s largest ‘Gay Villages’ – Canal Street. I love nights out on Canal Street, and similarly Madrid has Chueca, their equivalent ‘Gay Community.’ The metro station is my favourite thing, clad in all colours of the rainbow. Nights out there seem to rival that of Canal Street, and Madrid’s support and acceptance of the LGBT community is both similar to that of Manchester’s, and also heart-warming.
• The student atmosphere: Manchester is home to six universities, plus more subject-specific college centres, and so the city is absolutely full of students. Being an undergraduate student at the University of Manchester, I can fully comply with the thousands of articles that brand Manchester as the best UK student city, the atmosphere is incredible, and also very comfortable for young people moving away from home for study. Madrid is home to at least 15 universities, some of them international, public, private: there is such a huge range. Like Manchester, the city is full of students, and gives off the same exciting, comfortable feel for both home and international students. There’s nothing quite like it.
  

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• Shopping: one thing I adore about Manchester? The shopping. The Trafford Centre is my saviour – it has everything I need, in one place. It even has cocktail bars, and a place to eat sushi. Literally, what more could I ask for? Aside from The Trafford Centre, Manchester city centre is unreal too: the Arndale has a Topshop superstore, and besides that, there is a huge, 5-floor Selfridges too. You couldn’t want for anything in Manchester, because everything you’ll need is there! Madrid is much the same, from Fuencarral and Gran Vía to The Style Outlets and Plaza Norte in northern Madrid, you really cannot ask for much more. Madrid is home to one of the biggest Primark superstores in Europe, and on the opposite end of the scale, you can find boutiques with handmade clothes tucked away in the streets of Tribunal. Like I said, everything you could need.
• Food: Manchester is home to some of the most amazing food places: from Almost Famous to Home Sweet Home, from Rosso to Panama Hatty’s, whatever type of cuisine you’re looking for, Manchester has something for everyone! Madrid is much the same, as previously mentioned, Lavapiés is home to some amazing Indian restaurants, amongst other amazing cuisines. If it’s traditional, authentic Spanish tapas you’re after: visit Tribunal. And if you’re looking for a tasty brunch on a Sunday morning, Federal has eggs benedict that is worthy of rivalling that of Manchester’s Moose Coffee. You won’t be disappointed!

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manchester; lancashire; landmark; universitry; building; gothic; gothic revival; tower; education; eductional; establishment; road; oxford road, learning, outside, big, exterior

Disclaimer: all images, if not my own, are taken from weheartit.